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NOMOS Tangente 38 Date – 175 Years of Watchmaking History Glashütte Watches



As the only product on display at the 2024 Geneva Watch & Wonders show, NOMOS has unveiled a limited edition Tangente 38 Date in 31 different colorways to celebrate 175 years of watchmaking history in the German town of Glashütte. With a different version for each day of the month, and limited to just 175 of each colorway, the NOMOS Tangente 38 Date – 175 Years of Watchmaking History in Glashütte collection celebrates individuality and diversity within the industry, while also showcasing the German brand's ability to use color in unexpected yet tasteful ways.

While the 38mm date-display NOMOS Tangente is a well-known name and one of the brand's most popular designs, I wasn't initially sure it would succeed as a canvas for 31 different colorways. Certain colors pair better with others, and creating 31 different variations is much more difficult than producing the relatively few colorways that typically make up a collection.

However, after seeing all 31 metal versions of the NOMOS Tangente 38 Date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte (ref. 179) at Watches & Wonders Geneva, I ended up being quite surprised at how many I would consider buying. Some colorways naturally appeal to me more than others, and while I can easily see quite a few versions becoming one's everyday timekeeping companion, other, more colorful versions are likely destined to play the role of a “vacation watch” in one's collection. While I can't imagine myself wearing every one of the 31 different colorways, I can honestly say that none of them are completely bad, and this limited edition collection is both a testament to the versatility of the Tangente design and a strong reminder of why NOMOS is lauded for its use of color.

Aside from the colorway, all NOMOS Tangente 38 Date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte models are identical to the standard 38mm date display version (ref. 130). Also, it's worth noting that despite the “38” in the watch's name, the actual dimensions of the case are 37.5mm in diameter, 6.8mm thick, 19mm lugs, and a total lug-to-lug profile of 47.7mm. Like the standard NOMOS Tangente 38 Date, the 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte model features a polished stainless steel case, a sapphire crystal over the dial, a signed winding crown at 3 o'clock, and water resistance to 30 meters. However, while the standard production Tangente 38 Date is available with a choice of solid or exhibition casebacks, all limited edition 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte models come with an exhibition caseback to showcase their internal movements.

Inside, all NOMOS Tangente 38 Date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte models are powered by the manually wound Caliber DUW 4101, one of the German brand's in-house designed movements that can also be found in the standard production Tangente 38 Date watch. The 23-jewel NOMOS Cal. DUW 4101 runs at 21,600 vph (3 Hz), has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours, features the brand's signature Swing System escapement, and on the limited edition 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte models, the movement is adjusted to chronometer standards. Additionally, rather than mounting the date mechanism directly on top of its structure like most date-display movements, the NOMOS Cal. mounts it on top of the case. The DUW 4101's calendar disc is located on the periphery of the movement, which makes for a thinner overall design and allows the date window to be closer to the edge of the dial for better visual balance.

The dial layout of the NOMOS Tangente 38 Date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte limited edition follows the same basic design as the standard production version, with printed Arabic numerals, a small seconds hand, and a date window at 6 o'clock. However, each of the 31 editions features a different color scheme, paired with a color-coordinated calendar disc that matches or contrasts with the other tones on the dial. While many versions feature dials that include four or five different colors, others, such as the “Poporange” version (reference 179.S13), feature only two shades of orange against a classic black print. And, while some color schemes are simply playful and whimsical, others, such as the gray and tan “Haifischgrau” version (reference 179.S20), have a decidedly more serious look overall.

Despite the wide variety of dial colors in the collection, all NOMOS Tangente 38 Date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte models come with a two-piece, water-resistant textile strap in either light or dark gray. The gray fabric strap that comes with the 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte collection is a fairly simple design and comes with a polished stainless steel buckle emblazoned with the NOMOS logo. The first strap fastener is integrated into the buckle structure, while the second fastener is made of dark or light gray fabric to match the rest of the strap. Also, while the neutral gray hue allows the colorful dial to be the focal point, the Tangente 38 Date comes with standard 19mm lugs with drilled holes, and I imagine that more than a few users will swap out the included strap for a third-party alternative that matches their dial.

As this colorful collection is meant to celebrate diversity and self-expression, NOMOS wants these models to be as approachable as possible, and the brand sees the slightly subsidized price as an investment in individuals who wear and collect its watches. Furthermore, each of the 31 colorways will be produced in a limited edition of 175 pieces (a total of 5,425 watches), and while they are all currently sold out on the NOMOS official website, there is still a chance that you can find your favorite colorway from the brand's authorized retailers. Nomos excels at tastefully implementing unexpected colours, and the simple fact that the Tangente can successfully serve as a canvas for 31 different colourways is a testament to the success of its minimalist, Bauhaus-inspired design.